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'Obby 'Oss festival

Padstow is best known for its "'Obby 'Oss" festival. Although its origins are unclear, it most likely stems from an ancient fertility rite, perhaps the Celtic festival of Beltane. The festival starts at midnight on May Eve when townspeople sing the "Morning Song".[1] In the morning, the town is dressed with greenery and flowers are placed around a maypole. The climax arrives when male dancers cavort through the town dressed as one of two 'Obby 'Osses, the "Old" and the "Blue Ribbon" 'Obby 'Osses; as the name suggests, they are stylised kinds of horses. Prodded on by acolytes known as "Teasers", each wears a mask and black frame-hung cape under which they try to catch young maidens as they pass through the town. Finally, at midnight on May Day, the crowd sings of the 'Obby 'Oss death, until its resurrection the following May Eve.

Churches

The church of St Petroc is one of a group of three said to have been founded by the saint, the others being Little Petherick and Bodmin. It is quite large and mostly of 13th and 14th century date. There is a fine font of Catacleuse stone which is 15th century: the pulpit of ca. 1530 is also of interest. There are two fine monuments to members of the Prideaux family (Sir Nicholas, 1627 and Edmund, 1693): there is also a monumental brass of 1421.[2]

Description

Coordinates: 50°32′18″N 4°56′16″W / 50.5384°N 4.9378°W / 50.5384; -4.9378 Padstow (Cornish: Lannwedhenek) is a small town, civil parish and cargo port on the north coast of Cornwall, England, United Kingdom. The UK Census 2001 reported a parish population of 3,162.[1]

Economy

Traditionally a fishing port, Padstow is now a popular tourist destination; although some of its former fishing fleet remains, it is mainly a yachting haven on a dramatic coastline with few easily navigable harbours. The influence of restaurateur Rick Stein can be seen in the port, and tourists travel from long distances to eat at one of his restaurants or cafés. However, the Stein led boom has caused rocketing house prices in Padstow and surrounding areas, as people buy second or holiday homes there. This has meant significant numbers of locals cannot afford to buy property of their own now, with prices often well over 10 times the average salary of around £15 000. [6]

Footpaths and seaways

The South West Coast Path enables walkers to explore this spectacular section of coast, with Stepper Point and Trevose Head within an easy day's walk. The path crosses the river using the Black Tor Ferry, which carries pedestrians between Padstow and Rock. Another long-distance footpath known as the Saints' Way starts in Padstow and ends at Fowey on the south coast of Cornwall. During the mid-nineteenth century, ships carrying timber from Canada (particularly Quebec City) would arrive at Padstow and offer cheap travel to passengers wishing to emigrate. Shipbuilders in the area would also benefit from the quality of their cargoes. Among the ships that sailed were the barques Clio, Belle[4] and Voluna; and the brig Dalusia.[5]

Geography

Padstow is located approximately 14 miles north and east up the coast from Newquay, at the mouth of the River Camel. The approach to Padstow Harbour is notorious for the presence of the Doom Bar, a very dangerous sand bar which has caused many ship and small boat wrecks.

History

Padstow was originally named Petroc-stow, after the Welsh missionary St. Petroc, who landed at nearby Trebetherick around AD 500. After his death a monastery was established here which was of great importance until the town was raided by the Vikings (the monks moved inland to Bodmin). In the medieval period it was commonly called Aldestowe (as the 'old place' in contrast to Bodmin the 'new place').[13] Padstow isn't usually thought of as a "Viking town", but it was probably near Padstow that in 722 AD the Britons of Cornwall united with the Vikings of Denmark to destroy an invading Anglo-Saxon army led by Ine of Wessex at "Hehil". The Saxon army was slaughtered, and this decisive battle gave Cornwall 100 years of freedom from attacks by Wessex. The Annales Cambriae[14] is the source for the battle at Hehil.(However, it is not stated whether the Cornish fought the West Saxons or some other enemy.) About two miles to seaward of the village past a small inlet known as St George's Well, is an abandoned concrete bunker which housed generators for several nearby gun emplacements (World War II). Further along, the coastal path, on the cliff top, is an abandoned manual capstan. For ships entering the bay with a SW wind, a great hazard was caused by the immediate loss of wind power due to the cliffs. Rockets were fired from the cliffs to place a line on board to allow ships to be winched or warped in more safely. Padstow was notorious for ships becoming becalmed and swept onto the Doom Bar.

Mummers' or Darkie Day

On Boxing Day and New Year's Day, it is a tradition for some residents to don blackface and parade through the town singing 'minstrel' songs. This is an ancient British midwinter celebration that occurs every year in Padstow and was originally part of the pagan heritage of midwinter celebrations that were regularly celebrated all over Cornwall where people would guise dance and disguise themselves by blackening up their faces or wearing masks. (Recently the people of Penzance have revived its midwinter celebration with the Montol Festival which like Padstow at times would have had people darkening or painting their skin to disguise themselves as well as masking.) Folklorists associate the practice with the widespread British custom of blacking up for mumming and morris dancing, and suggest there is no record of slave ships coming to Padstow. Once an unknown local charity event, the day has recently become controversial, perhaps since a description was published.[7] Also some now suggest it is racist for white people to "black up" for any reason.[8] Although "outsiders" have linked the day with racism, Padstonians insist that this is not the case and are incredulous at both description and allegations. Long before the controversy Charlie Bate, noted Padstow folk advocate, recounted that in the 1970s the content and conduct of the day were carefully reviewed to avoid potential offence.[9] The Devon and Cornwall Constabulary have taken video evidence twice and concluded there were no grounds for prosecution.[10] Nonetheless protests resurface annually. The day has now been renamed Mummer's day in an attempt to avoid offence and identify it more clearly with established Cornish tradition.[11] The debate has now been subject to academic scrutiny.[12]. Other similar traditions that use the black-face disguise are still celebrated within the United Kingdom are the * Border Morris dancers * Britannia nutters of Bacup and * Molly dancers of the East Midlands and East Anglia

Notable residents

* Rick Stein. Restaurateur and celebrity chef * Enys Tregarthen. Author and folklorist * Malcolm Arnold. Composer lived in nearby St Merryn in the 1960s

Railway lines

Between 1899 and 1967 Padstow railway station was the westernmost point of the former Southern Railway. The station was the terminus of an extension from Wadebridge of the former Bodmin and Wadebridge Railway and North Cornwall Railway. These lines were part of the London and South Western Railway (LSWR), then incorporated into the Southern Railway in 1923 and British Railways in 1948, but were proposed for closure during the Beeching Axe of the 1960s. The LSWR (and Southern Railway) promoted Padstow as a holiday resort; these companies were rivals to the Great Western Railway (which was the larger railway in the West of England). Until 1964, Padstow was served by the Atlantic Coast Express -- a direct train service to/from London (Waterloo) -- but the station was closed in 1967. The old railway line is now the Camel Trail,[3] a footpath and cycle path which is popular owing to its picturesque route beside the River Camel. One of the railway mileposts is now embedded outside the Shipwright's Arms public house on the Harbour Front.

See also

* Padstow lifeboat