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Description

Coordinates: 50°57′N 2°43′W / 50.95°N 2.72°W / 50.95; -2.72 Montacute is a small village and civil parish in Somerset, England, 4 miles (6.4 km) west of Yeovil. The village has a population of 680 (2002 estimate). The name Montacute is thought by some to derive from the Latin "Mons Acutus", referring to the small but still quite acute hill dominating the village to the west. The village is built almost entirely of the local hamstone. From the 15th century until the beginning of the 20th century it formed the heart of the estate of the Phelips family of Montacute House. The village has a fine medieval church, and a former Cluniac priory, the gatehouse of which is now a private house. At the centre of the village is a large square known as the 'Borough' around which are grouped picturesque cottages and a public house known as the Phelips Arms. A second public house and hotel called the King's Arms is also situated in the village. An area of grass parkland lies to the east of the village, this formed the eastern approach to Montacute House though the drive through the park is now unused. Although associated with the Montacute estate, the park lies mainly within the neigbouring village of Odcombe. To the south of the village, bounded by Woodhouse Lane, and the Roman roads of Park Lane and Hollow Lane lies the older Deer Park: this is divided into High Park and Low Park by the woodland path known as Ladies Walk. The oldest extant known road in the village is a track leading from the front of the Abbey Gatehouse to Ham Hill, via the defensive ramparts of Ham Hill. This track crosses another presumed Roman Road which runs on the line of Stanchester (site of a Roman Villa) - Under Warren (abandoned settlement) Batemore (Roman Villa) - Witcombe (abandoned settlement) - Norton Lane - High Wood. Another ancient track struck northeast from the Borough toward Ilchester, and is revealed by the housing layout but the route across the Park has been lost. This and the track to Ham Hill may possibly mark a Roman route between the fortifications of Ilchester and Ham Hill, but are probably older. Little now remains of the Clunaic Montacute Priory, which was a victim of the Reformation. The incorrectly named "Abbey Gatehouse" remains as a private dwelling (it was a Priory - not an Abbey) as does the Monk's Pigeon Loft and Stewpond. Crop marks can be seen in the close-by fields known as Meads during drought, though there is much debate as to whether these represent the site of the Priory, or an animal enclosure. Montacute has a claim to possible fame in that one of the (possibly the) earliest written record of the "méthode champenoise" is found in documents from the Priory. However this referred to the production of cider - not wine. Montacute is much visited by tourists who come to the area, attracted by the nearby Ham Hill Country Park, and Montacute House (now owned by the National Trust) which is one of the finest examples of an Elizabethan house in England, and several other mansions open to the public in the immediate vicinity. Like many West Country villages, Montacute has suffered badly from a proliferation of "second homes" and city retirees, making housing in the village unaffordable for local first-time buyers, and indeed for most local-born villagers. This population change has also contributed to the near-total elimination of village shops. From twelve shops selling household essentials in the 1960's only a petrol station, carpentry shop and equestrian store remain. Friction has occurred over the years between the National Trust (who own much of the central village property) and the local population. Issues such as the failure to maintain historic workers cottages in Middle Street while they waited for the elderly occupants to die (until forced to do so following major flooding), claims of ownership of the Borough (the village's only car park) and attempts to grass it over, reseeding with rye-grass of an ancient meadow in Montacute Park causing the destruction of the remains of an ancient field system, failure to maintain the remains of the village water mill, leasing off of the estate farm houses so making the farms unviable, unsympathetic tree-feeling in Ladies Walk, and plans to clear-fell the mature trees of St Michaels Hill despite serious wildlife issues have all created a substantial degree of animosity toward the Trust.

Governance

The parish council has responsibility for local issues, including setting an annual precept (local rate) to cover the council’s operating costs and producing annual accounts for public scrutiny. The parish council evaluates local planning applications and works with the local police, district council officers, and neighbourhood watch groups on matters of crime, security, and traffic. The parish council's role also includes initiating projects for the maintenance and repair of parish facilities, as well as consulting with the district council on the maintenance, repair, and improvement of highways, drainage, footpaths, public transport, and street cleaning. Conservation matters (including trees and listed buildings) and environmental issues are also the responsibility of the council. The village falls within the Non-metropolitan district of South Somerset, which was formed on April 1, 1974 under the Local Government Act 1972, having previously been part of Yeovil Rural District.[4] The district council is responsible for local planning and building control, local roads, council housing, environmental health, markets and fairs, refuse collection and recycling, cemeteries and crematoria, leisure services, parks, and tourism. Somerset County Council is responsible for running the largest and most expensive local services such as education, social services, libraries, main roads, public transport, policing and fire services, trading standards, waste disposal and strategic planning. It is also part of a county constituency represented in the House of Commons of the Parliament of the United Kingdom. It elects one Member of Parliament (MP) by the first past the post system of election, and part of the South West England constituency of the European Parliament which elects seven MEPs using the d'Hondt method of party-list proportional representation.

History

To the west of the village is the Iron Age hill fort of Ham Hill, a large tribal fort of the Durotriges. The fort was conquered by the Roman Legio II Augusta sometime around 45 AD. The Romans briefly occupied the fort, then moved to a more permanent garrison at nearby Ilchester (Lindinis), and constructed the Fosse Way Roman Road a few miles west of the village. A Roman villa was excavated near Batemoor Barn early in the twentieth century and an extensive mosaic documented. However this was never adequately protected and has – probably – been damaged by deep ploughing in the last 20 years. Variously called Logaresburgh by the Saxons,later Bishoptone or Biscepstone by both Saxons and Normans the estate was owned by a Dane called Tofig; who is said to have been Harold Godwinson's royal standard-bearer. Montacute is reputed to have been named by Robert, Count of Mortain, who built the motte-and-bailey Castle Montacute as his English seat in 1068 and founded the Cluniac priory. It was probably named after his Norman colleague Drogo (Drew) de Montague (Montacute)— the idea that the village was named "Mons Acutus" after the tower hill is probably a conceit – more likely the hill was nicknamed in honour of the man. The name later transferred to the village. The site of the castle was a deliberate affront to the defeated English because a black flint cross (the "Holy Rood") was said to have been discovered atop the hill earlier in the eleventh century by the village blacksmith. This was supposedly placed in a wagon by Tofig, and he named a series of possible destinations owned by him. The oxen pulling the wagon (six red and six white in one version of the tale) refused to move until he said "Waltham". They then started, and continued non-stop until they reached Waltham. When they stopped, Tofig decided to build an abbey at the site – this became Waltham Abbey. This relic had become an object of veneration, pilgrimage and celebration. "Holy Cross" was the battle-cry of Harold's armies at the battles of Stamford Bridge and Hastings. The Holy Rood is said to have foretold Harold's defeat at Hastings: on the way there from the Battle of Stamford Bridge he stopped off at Waltham Abbey to pray, and the legend is that the cross "bowed down" off the wall as he did so. This was taken as a portent of doom. Later what was said to be a piece of "Christs True Cross" was transferred from Waltham to Scotland and became the "Holy Rood" of Holyrood, Edinburgh so it would seem that at some point the history of the origin of the cross was rewritten. Both the original cross, and the Holyrood fragment were lost during the destructions of the reformation. Castle Montacute was besieged by the local Saxons in 1069 and its relief required the assembly of a considerable force by the Norman bishop, Geoffrey of Coutances, whose large landholdings were also threatened. The revolt was suppressed harshly and Joseph Bettey [1] has suggested that "the devastation in the surrounding area which followed the English defeat may explain why so many manors in south Somerset are recorded in the Domesday Survey as having decreased in value". The Saxon dead were buried in a mass grave to the West of the village in a sloping field now known as "Under Warren". Village tradition has it that TWO hilltop fortifications were built: first a wooden clamshell fort with motte & bailey, later replaced by a stone castle. However little evidence to prove the existence of the stone structure exists, except a note in the Parish records that two loads of stone were taken from the site by the neighbouring parish of Martock. A report by the Somerset Archeologists office queries whether in fact a stone castle was ever built. A church or chapel dedicated to St Michael later replaced the castle. Excavations of the hiiltop have been limited and inconclusive. A folly tower, built in 1760 by Edward Phelips V now occupies the hill-top. Known as St Michael's tower it stands on Mons Acutus which was the site of the former castle. The Hamstone tower is about 5 metres (16.4 ft) in diameter, and rises 15 metres (49.2 ft) before curving inwards to a viewing platform which reached via a 52 step spiral staircase.[2] It has been designated as a Grade II listed building.[3] Considerable earthworks are built into St Michaels Hill, and the common belief is that these are the remains of an extensive Motte & Bailey, however a report by the Somerset County Archeologist unit favours their view that these are in fact wine-growing terraces. This is in contradiction to the village tradition that the Roman and Monastic vineyards were west of this on the north side of Ham Hill, just east of the "Prince of Wales" pub and south of East Stoke church, where terraces can clearly be seen. There is an alternative suggestion that the St Michaels Hill earthworks are Saxon or even pre-Roman, but there is no evidence to support this. Village legend has it that a hidden tunnel links the hill-top with Montacute House, however no records of a tunnel are known to exist, and the height of the hill and distance involved would make this unlikely. A further local legend is that a daughter of the Phelips family was incarcerated in the tower as a punishment for attempting to elope.

Notable residents

* The vicar of Montacute between 1885 and 1918 was the Reverend C.F. Powys, father of the writers John Cowper Powys, Llewelyn Powys and Theodore Francis Powys. * Philippa Powys, their sister, the author was born here. * Thomas Shoel 1759-1823, agricultural labourer, poet, and prolific composer * George Mitchell 1826-1901, agricultural labourer, later Master Stonemason with businesses in London, campaigner for agricultural labour reform, and senior figure in the formation and early history of the National Agricultural Labourers Union * (Richard?) Foister (dates unknown) highwayman, thief and habitual murderer preying on Christian pilgrims and other travellers, said by local tradition to be the last man gibbeted alive in England (at Batemore Barn - on the route of the ancient London-Exeter road). Legend has it that when the body was removed from the gibbet, Foister had eaten all the flesh on his hands and wrists "down to the bone". His calls of "bread for Foister" could be heard for several days as he died. A passing girl who offered him (tallow) candles to eat was nearly lynched. A ghost still haunts the disused hollow-way section of road known as "Foister's Gully"

References

* (N/A) (1868). National Gazetteer of Great Britain and Ireland. London: Virtue.

Religious sites

The Church of St. Catherine has 12th century origins, with alterations in the 13th and 15th centuries. It was extensively restored in 1870 by Henry Hall. The church contains monuments to the Phelips family including David and Ann, who died in 1484, and Bridget, died 1508. There are canopied effigies of Thomas, died 1588, and Elizabeth, died 1598. On the west wall is a garble monument to Edward, who died in 1690. A Saxon Hamstone font lay unidentified in the churchyard for many years, but has now been reinstated in place of its Tudor successor. [5] There is reason to believe that an earlier St Catherines Chapel, associated with the Priory Church burnt down in Medieval times. A few small pieces of burnt carved medieval stonework were reused in building the back of the old village school: tradition has it that these are remnants from the old Chapel.