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Description
Population (2006) Rathkeale (from the Irish: Ráth Caola meaning "Caola's ringfort") is a town in west County Limerick, Ireland. It is located 30 km (18 mi) southwest of Limerick city on the N21 road to Tralee, and lies on the River Deel. Rathkeale has a significant Irish Traveller population. Rathkeale has shopping facilities, a Museum and a Community College (Colaiste na Trocaire). The town has a large Roman Catholic parish church, Augustinian Abbey ruins and the Holy Trinity Church of Ireland church.
History
* Rath Caola means "The fort of Caola", Caola is reputed to have been a Gaelic King. On the invasion of the Normans, the lands were to come into the hands of the family of Maltravers. This family gives their name to the townlands of Courtmatrix and Castlematrix, which are in the neighbourhood of the town. These townlands represent the original manor lands of the Parish and their names have evolved over time (-Maltravers, -Mattrass, -Matrix). The town of Rathkeale contains six townlands, taking their roots from three language groups - Rathkeale and Enniscuash (Gaelic), Castlematrix, Wolfesburgess East and Abbeylands (Anglo-Norman) and Englishtenaments (English). The land would appear to have remained in the hands of the Maltravers until the mid 15th. Century, when it was acquired by the FitzGeralds (Geraldines) of Desmond. In 1840, before the Great Famine, Rathkeale was a major landlord town and was the county town of Limerick. In the census of 1830 it is recorded as having a population of almost 5,000 people (compared with 1,500 today). Furthermore, ringed around Rathkeale were a series of small villages, some of which have since disappeared. These villages included the Palatine Chapel villages of Courtmatrix, Killiheen and Ballingarrane; the turnpike village of Reens, a clachan at Cappellagh (Riddlestown) and the villages of Croagh and Cappagh. Today, only Croagh and possibly Ballingarrane and Reens remain. Within these general categories, the layouts of the villages varied considerably. This was particularly true of the three Palatine villages. The one feature all three had in common was the Methodist Meeting House. Courtmatrix was extremely well planned. It consisted of a square of houses laid out around a green with the Meeting House at the centre. This was the earliest of the Palatine villages to be settled in the locality (indeed in Ireland). Its layout indicates that Southwell (the landlord who introduced the Palatines to the region) was prepared to spend money to attract the community onto his estate. According to Mayes, each settler got 8 acres (32,000 m2) with the joint use of the commons. At Killiheen the village was linear in shape with the Meeting House at the southern end of the village. Roughly half way between these two villages was a school built by Lady Butler for the education of the children of the two communities. Ballingarrane village, which lies to the north of Rathkeale, was far more dispersed. The Palatines appear to have had their houses spread along 1.5 miles (2.4 km) of roadside. However, roughly halfway along this roadway stood the Meeting House and school. In this case the school expenses were paid for by Lord Southwell, whose family was at this stage Catholic (the Southwells were among the first Irish landlords to become Catholic with the ending of the Penal laws). During the 1820s, the Palatines were subject to sectarian attacks although it is not clear whether this was the case near Rathkeale. However, during the 1780s some three hundred Whiteboys surrounded Ballingarrane and relieved the inhabitants of their guns. There were no injuries in this incident[citation needed]. A Police Inspector Wilcox, who succeeded the assassinated Going, was to testify that his first duty as the Inspector for the Rathkeale area was to purge the police force of Orangemen[citation needed]. Certainly the reduction in violence, following Wilcox assuming command, indicates that the police may well have been the agents of provocation in this outbreak of violence. The survival of the Palatine villages at this date suggests that earlier resentment had receded[citation needed]. The small former turnpike village of Reens survives today as a hamlet with its pubs and its sub-post office providing services for the surrounding countryside. The turnpike was situated on the main Rathkeale - Listowel Road which was constructed in the early/mid 19th century. The third set of villages were clachans. These were little farming villages that grew up due to population pressure and the attempts by families to support each other and prevent the landlord from evicting the more vulnerable members. Some of these villages could be said to represent a primitive form of cooperative. The buildings at Cappellagh can still be seen on later maps, such as the 1921 edition of the 6-inch scale maps and it was only relatively recently that the ruins of this village were cleared. The settlements at Croagh and Cappagh appear to have their origins in church related functions. In Croagh there is still evidence of the ruins of the old ecclesiastical settlement which dominates the village. By 1840 the village contained `40 huts' according to Lewis {full citation needed}. Croagh's inhabitants were to endure a particularly rough time during the famine, yet the village was to survive. Today the village faces another major struggle with the building of the new bypass. Patrick J. O'Connor in his book Exploring Limerick's Past gives a list of the occupations of the people of Cappagh from the Ordnance Survey name-book. There were a number of traders in the village, servicing the surrounding rural community and yet, of all the villages, Cappagh is the one which was clearly devastated by the famine. The 1851 Census clearly indicates the village was swept away during those hungry years. However, the Civil Survey does make a reference to a Cappaghtowne. As the parish belonged to the Bishop of Limerick, it had obviously developed under Church patronage. One further factor of note about the village in 1841 was the presence of eight Constabulary Officers which suggests the troubles around the area in the 1820s, culminating in the shooting of Captain Going. Of the earlier deserted villages perhaps the most significant was that of Castlematrix. Castlematrix or Castle Mattress gets its name from the original Lords of Rathkeale. The Manor of Rathkeale was centred on the townlands of Castlematrix and Courtmatrix. Interestingly both townlands were the centre of earlier settlements. Castlematrix is recorded in the 1640s as containing a small village along with a mill. However, the inhabitants of the village were probably cleared at a later date by a member of the Southwell family, and probably these people were to be the original inhabitants of Church Street, the only street in Rathkeale to be part of the Southwell estate. The remainder of the town had the Abbey as the focus of its development. This is clear from the Peyton Survey of 1588, which shows the lands of the Abbey to be the centre for the annual market and records the presence of buildings which could be rented as `shops' in this area. The Civil Survey in 1654 and the 1659 Census provide us with a picture of a town stretching from the Abbey towards the Deel Bridge, containing over 600 inhabitants, where most of the property owners were old English. This implies that, contrary to McCarthy-Murrough's opinion, Rathkeale was not in fact a plantation town but had much older roots and far more substantial than people thought (Kilmallock about this time with possibly 3,000 inhabitants was almost certainly the largest inland town in the county and among the five largest in the country as a whole). Rathkeale would have been second only to Kilmallock in Co. Limerick. There also appears to have been an earlier settlement at Courtmatrix where, during the Irish rebellion of 1641, the Southwell papers record that fifteen houses at Courtmatrix had been burned. This site (probably the site of an English village) was superseded by the later Palatine settlement. Today, in an attempt to trace evidence of deserted villages from this era, historians are using two methods. Firstly, there is aerial photography, which gives a clearer view of ruins from the air than exists on the ground. There is also the 1659 Census. In the case of Rathkeale parish, apart from giving knowledge of the existence of Ballyalinan village which has long been known, the Census also suggests the existence of a village at Ballyea of which no reference or evidence previously existed. Other villages certainly existed at Nantenan near the Fair Green on the edge of the Royse Estate and on the demesne lands of Cloghnarold House. The village at Cloghnarold is suggested in the correspondence of the Southwells but is also supported by the presence of the ruins of an old church close to the house. The house was built on the site of an old castle. This practice was quite common in Ireland and in the neighbourhood of Rathkeale another noticeable example appears to be Mount Southwell which, it has been suggested, was built on the site of Rathkeale Castle. If this is true, one should also be aware of the fact that the Rath (Fort) of Caola, from which Rathkeale gets its name is also in the vicinity of Mount Southwell. This suggests continuous settlement at the western end of town for at least one thousand years and is supported by the finding in the last century of a bracelet on an ecclesiastical site in Rathkeale, though this church was never identified. The bracelet was believed to have dated from the Bronze Age but recently this has been dated to the Viking period. Rathkeale has in past periods been the centre of prosperous rural communities. The fact that these villages went into decline is usually linked with periods of crisis in Irish history. The villages of Ballyalinan, Cloghnarold and Ballyea (if indeed there was a village there) almost certainly went into decline in the wake of the Cromwell era. Later, villages such as Courtmatrix, Cappagh, Nantenan and Killiheen owe their decline to emigration in the wake of the Famine, if not the Famine itself. Various outside groups settled in the vicinity of Rathkeale. Most Irish parishes had to integrate English and Anglo-Norman settlers, however small these settlements. Rathkeale not only integrated these groups, but also the Palatine community and a Scottish settlement. The Scottish settlement was based in Ballyalinan and was introduced by the Earl of Desmond. They belonged to the MacSheehy clan and were settled as Gallowglass (members of Desmond's army). This tradition of integrating outside communities makes Rathkeale a unique example of a melting pot in Irish history. It continues today as a large number of travellers who choose to make Rathkeale their permanent residence. In the past, local landlords helped integrate these groups into our community. If the travellers are to be integrated into Rathkeale, then a future has also to be guaranteed for the settled community. It is the time for a new benefactor to help in this process, namely the Irish Government, otherwise one fears that the long-term future of the town itself will be in question. The 6-inch scale Ordnance Survey maps of the late 1830s and early 1840s provide a detailed record of the Irish landscape at that time. The maps were accompanied by a series of name-books which record sites of note which appear on the maps. The cartographers and their assistants frequently wrote to headquarters at the Phoenix Park in Dublin, recording any differences they had experienced in the course of their exercise and frequently seeking advice. Copies of the maps and name-books for County Limerick at the Limerick City Library. [Copies of the letters are held by the Ordnance Survey of Ireland {needs confirmamtion}] A set of early photographs of Rathkeale are available from the National Library in Ireland.
Places of interest
* Rathkeale's former railway station on the closed North Kerry railway line from Limerick to Tralee has been converted into the Irish Palatine Museum. * Bleach Loch, nearby in the direction of Kildimo, is a fishing[1] location on the River Deel. * On the southwestern edge of the town stands the 15th century tower house of Castle Matrix, formerly a property of an Earl of Desmond, which contains a display or art objects and holds historical records. * The church of Rathkeale was built in 1832[1] A tree stump has drawn media attention as some claim it bears an image of the Virgin Mary.[2][3] The parish priest has said that it is just a tree and not an object of worship.[2][3]
References
Coordinates: 52°31′N 8°56′W / 52.517°N 8.933°W / 52.517; -8.933
See also
* List of towns and villages in Ireland
Transport
* Rathkeale railway station opened on 1 January 1867, closed for passenger traffic on 4 February 1963 and finally closed altogether on 2 December 1974.[4]